Stain Removal Guide
- Alcoholic Beverages
- Anti-Perspirants/Deodorants
- Axle Grease, Oil, Tar
- Blood
- Carbon
- Candle Wax, Paraffin
- Chewing Gum
- Coffee, Tea
- Cosmetics, Crayon
- Egg
- Fruit, Juices, Vegetables
- Greasy Stains
- Non-Greasy Stains
- Both Greasy & Non-Gr. Stains
- Glue, Mucilage Adhesives
- Grass, Flowers, Foliage
- Gravy
- Ink
- Mildew
- Mustard
- Paint and Varnish
- Perspiration
- Rust, Iron Stains
- Scorch
- Shoe Polish
- Stove Polish
- Urine
- Wine
Perspiration
Wet Clean
Washables:
- Sponge promptly with ammonia. (8,5,9) For old stains, sponge with white vinegar. (9)
- If oily residue persists, use cleaning fluid. (6,7)
- Launder.
- If odor persists soak in warm water and salt (4 tbs. salt to 1 qt. Water) for at least 1 hour.
- If stain persists use bleach. (1,4)
Non-Washables:
Use steps 1 and 2 from washables directions only.
NOTE: Ironing perspiration stains weakens fabric.
WET CLEAN - Wet Cleaners are liquids, the most important being water.
DRY CLEAN - Dry Cleansers contain no actual moisture, even when in liquid form.
- Chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide may be necessary to remove last traces of stain. Mix 1 tsp of bleach and 1 tsp of water. Rinse well. Do not use chlorine on silk, wool, spandex, flame-proofed fabrics, or mohair.
- Do not use heat of any kind on stain area until stain is removed, as heat may set the stain.
- Dilute alcohol with two parts water if using acetate.
- Test in an inconspicuous place first to see if colors or fabric are affected.
- Ammonia changes some dyes. Restore by warm water and white vinegar rinse.
- Could be poisonous.
- Could be flammable.
- Dilute ammonia with equal parts of water for silk or wool.
- While white vinegar is safe for all fabrics, dyes may change when vinegar is applied. If colors do change, rinse with water and ammonia solution, followed by water rinse.
