Stain Removal Guide
- Alcoholic Beverages
- Anti-Perspirants/Deodorants
- Axle Grease, Oil, Tar
- Blood
- Carbon
- Candle Wax, Paraffin
- Chewing Gum
- Coffee, Tea
- Cosmetics, Crayon
- Egg
- Fruit, Juices, Vegetables
- Greasy Stains
- Non-Greasy Stains
- Both Greasy & Non-Gr. Stains
- Glue, Mucilage Adhesives
- Grass, Flowers, Foliage
- Gravy
- Ink
- Mildew
- Mustard
- Paint and Varnish
- Perspiration
- Rust, Iron Stains
- Scorch
- Shoe Polish
- Stove Polish
- Urine
- Wine
Paint and Varnish
Wet Clean
Washables:
Remove immediately or stains will harden. Use agent listed on can as thinner (6,7) on stain.
- Sponge with soap and water.
- Rinse.
- If stain persists, sponge with turpentine. (For aluminum paint use cleaning fluid.) (7,6)
- Immediately work in liquid detergent and soak overnight in hot water.
- Repeat if necessary.
Non-Washables:
Remove immediately or stains will harden. Use agent listed on can as thinner (6,7) on stain. Sponge with turpentine.
WET CLEAN - Wet Cleaners are liquids, the most important being water.
DRY CLEAN - Dry Cleansers contain no actual moisture, even when in liquid form.
- Chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide may be necessary to remove last traces of stain. Mix 1 tsp of bleach and 1 tsp of water. Rinse well. Do not use chlorine on silk, wool, spandex, flame-proofed fabrics, or mohair.
- Do not use heat of any kind on stain area until stain is removed, as heat may set the stain.
- Dilute alcohol with two parts water if using acetate.
- Test in an inconspicuous place first to see if colors or fabric are affected.
- Ammonia changes some dyes. Restore by warm water and white vinegar rinse.
- Could be poisonous.
- Could be flammable.
- Dilute ammonia with equal parts of water for silk or wool.
- While white vinegar is safe for all fabrics, dyes may change when vinegar is applied. If colors do change, rinse with water and ammonia solution, followed by water rinse.
